It’s a product that I get asked about all the time, and there are so many misconceptions of how to apply it and how to wear it, let alone how you pick the right shade.
It’s used to dull down redness, increase radiance and blur imperfections, it should deliver an almost flawless even toned skin. But we all know it has its pitfalls too, especially as we get older. Pilling, patchiness, siting in wrinkles and shade confusion… there’s a lot to contend with. That’s why I have put together my buying guide, complete with application tricks to achieve that flawless finish.
How do I make sure it’s the right colour?
The right shade is crucial to a natural looking base, always look at it in daylight or under natural daylight bulbs rather than under a department store lighting. Don’t be afraid to go outside to have a look, try it on your cheek, not your hand or neckline. Don’t let anyone blend the colour too much, if it’s a match to your skin it should go in very easily and almost become invisible. With todays sheer formulations you can make practically any colour fit, so you have to be bold enough to ask them to stripe it on and have a look. Leave the product on your skin for at least 10 – 15 mins as it will change as it oxidises. Also remember that you will need a couple of shades for when its summer and winter.
Your skin type.
You will know if your skin tone is fair, medium or dark but do you know if your undertone is cool, warm or neutral? For a perfect match you need to make sure your foundation has the same undertones as your skin.
If your skin gets pink and the veins in your wrist are very blue then you have cool undertones. If your skin is golden beige or olive and your veins are green then you are warm toned. If you have both beige and pink tones (you probably suit silver & gold jewellery) you have neutral undertones.
How much coverage do I need?
This is one of the biggest misconceptions about foundation, most people are under the assumption that you need to pile it on, and cover your entire face. Wrong! It cant be used to cover everything, to disguise scars and redness or cover up psoriasis. Concealer should be used for 80% of your coverage, and your base is only 20%. Don’t ever use foundation as your blanket cover. You only need to put foundation on where you feel you need it, usually popular areas are forehead, around the nose cheek area and possibly chin.
How do I make sure it’s the right texture?
You can pick a matte, semi matte, dewy, medium or full coverage formula. Dewy finishes work best on normal to dry dull skin, matte foundations are best for oilier, whilst super matte finishes are less flattering on older complexion.
A great way to ensure a smooth flawless finish is to prep your skin first, make sure it’s clean and dry, add a primer which will not only moisturise and protect your skin but it will give your makeup better lasting power.
Fingers – As a makeup artist this is my least preferred method on clients, you can control the product and work it into the skin. But not the hygienic method if your doing someone else’s makeup.
Brush – To create a uniform veil with a natural finish. I love the Real Techniques brushes.
Beauty Blenders – Great for getting into all those nooks and crannies.
Wedges – You get a lot of control with these and tend to waste less foundation, be sure not to go for a latex variety.
Need to know: Base and Older Skin
Less is more – use too much and it will sit in your lines and wrinkles
Prep is more – As we get older we need to prep our skin before applying makeup. Its essential to use a good moisturiser and primer.
Start in the middle – Any redness or blemishes tend to be in the middle of our face, so start in the middle and work outwards.
Contouring and Ultra Glowy – Is best left to the catwalk, in real life we will look false and like we are having a permanent hot flush.
If you would like some help with your makeup I offer 121 makeup lessons, or why not join me at a Makeup Workshop. The Workshops are a great way to learn how to apply your own makeup, why we used certain products and to experiment with different colours under the guidance of an expert! My next Makeup Workshop is Friday 2nd November @ 7.30pm in the Eversley Studio.
121 Lessons £40 per hour
Makeup Workshops £20 per person (mix 6 people)